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Fake models for fast fashion? What AI clones mean for our jobs -- and our identities
In the heart of New York City's Times Square, there are signs of an artificial intelligence (AI) revolution in marketing. A popup by British tech startup, Hypervsn, showcases life-size holograms in a health supplement store. From behind the glass, a virtual humanoid avatar with spunky pink hair
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Fake models for fast fashion? What AI clones mean for our jobs -- and our identities
In the heart of New York City's Times Square, there are signs of an artificial intelligence (AI) revolution in marketing. In a health supplement store, a popup by British tech startup, Hypervsn, showcases life-size holograms. From behind the glass, a virtual humanoid avatar with spunky pink hair
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H&M's recent cloning of 30 real-life models using AI technology sparks a debate on the future of work, compensation, and identity in the fashion industry. The rise of digital twins presents both opportunities and ethical challenges.

In a groundbreaking move, H&M, the Swedish fast-fashion giant, has recently cloned 30 real-life models using "digital twin" technology, sparking global excitement and debate
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. This development is part of a broader AI revolution in marketing and retail, with companies like British tech startup Hypervsn showcasing life-size holograms in New York City's Times Square1
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.Digital twin production is a meticulous process that replicates a person's unique identity, including their voice, personality, body, and face. When individuals agree to be cloned by a digital twin startup, they consent to the use of generative AI to replicate their entire physical appearance and characteristics
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.The emergence of digital twins has necessitated the development of new ethical frameworks. Industry leader Natalie Monbiot has coined the term "Virtual Human Economy" to describe this growing sector
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. Companies like HourOne, Synthesia, and Soul Machines are competing to dominate this space, offering digital twins for various applications from fashion modeling to corporate training videos1
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.One of the most significant ethical challenges revolves around ownership and compensation. While H&M has stated that the human models will receive "fair compensation" and retain some rights to their digital likenesses, industry standards for such contracts remain inconsistent
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. The long-term value proposition of these digital likenesses is still unclear, with some companies offering royalty structures while others purchase full rights upfront1
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The rise of digital twins is fundamentally shifting how labor and compensation are structured in image-based industries. American labor scholar Andrew Ross describes this as a "jackpot economy," where intellectual property becomes "the glittering prize for the lucky few" while the majority face increased precarity
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.Fashion scholar Minh-Ha Pham has noted how digital technologies amplify winners-take-all economic structures within the fashion and blogging industries
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. Additionally, New Zealand scholars Rachel Berryman and Misha Kavka have highlighted the growing importance of "parasocial" relationships in career success1
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.The concentration of power among successful digital twins raises concerns about representation, particularly in terms of race, sexuality, and gender in virtual spaces. Fully virtual fashion models like Shudu, with over 237,000 Instagram followers and partnerships with luxury brands, demonstrate how digital avatars can potentially flatten and commercialize identity
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.As the fashion industry continues to embrace AI-generated models and digital twins, it must grapple with these complex ethical, economic, and representational issues. The future of fashion modeling hangs in the balance, with potential implications for workers' rights, diversity, and the very nature of identity in the digital age.
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